Every year, tens of thousands of visitors descend on the Isle of Man, a small 572km² island in the Irish Sea where life is normally slow-paced and peaceful. But for two weeks in May or June, the population of around 85 000 throws its doors, guest rooms and even lawns open to spectators attending the Isle of Man Tourist Trophy (TT) – hailed as one of the most dangerous racing events in the world.
The time trial motorcycle race has fascinated participants and spectators for over a century – not least because riders reach 130-mph (200km/h) average speeds while threading superbikes through impossibly narrow country lanes. Almost 150 competitors have lost their lives on the track of just under 38 miles (±60km) since the inaugural race in 1907 – excluding several onlookers, officials and marshals.

Photo: Gert Meulman
Superbikes and Subarus
It might sound like an irresponsible stunt to the average person, but for riders – and even spectators – it’s not about defying death as much as it is about living life to its fullest. Clinton Pienaar (number 83, above), editor of SuperBike Magazine SA, says finishing in three of the seven race classes in 2010 was one of the proudest moments of his racing career. “I’d always followed the race and it was a bucket list item for me, I simply had to try it once.”

Photo: Subaru
It’s a goal post even for some on four wheels. UK rally driver Mark Higgins broke the lap record for four-wheeled vehicles in 2016 in a Subaru WRX STI, finishing the circuit in 17m 35s. Clinton’s fastest lap speed was 114.8mph (185km/h) on his Honda Fireblade 1000cc superbike (the outright lap speed record is 135.4mph – 218km/h). His reward? A smack from his wife. “Really!” he laughs. “And looking back, I have to say I agree with her. It’s dangerous – you’re very aware that if you make a mistake, you could die.”

Photo: Barry Humphries
PlayStation homework
Besides a long history as a respected racer, Clinton’s prep work involved a lot of PlayStation gaming. “It might sound silly, but I’d definitely recommend the Isle of Man TT game for new riders. It has every one of the over 200 turns in the track.” But nothing could prepare him for the real experience. “Surprisingly, the most terrifying part was the only completely straight stretch of road, where the fastest riders can reach up to 220mph (354km/h). It’s lined with trees, and at that speed, as the sunlight filters through, it starts playing tricks on your eyes and everything becomes a blur. The only thing I could see clearly was a tiny spot far ahead where I knew I had to go. You just have to trust your instincts.”
The topography ranges from forests to meadows to hills at elevations of around 400m, while the often rough roads are lined with stone walls, lamp posts, trees and buildings. With such hazards, qualifying is not easy. The Manx Grand Prix, a race on the same course geared towards newcomers, is the best bet for those who want to qualify for the TT. But even if you’re not at that level of riding, Clinton says everyone should watch it at least once. “I’ve taken friends over a few times, and we usually stay in the same house. We’ll have a braai in the garden while watching the race, and our guests usually take a few steps back when the first riders pass – you can actually feel the rush of air.”

Photo: Gert Meulman
Keen to go? Spectators can camp from as little as £15 (R280) per night. Visit iomtt.com for more information.